GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 2016

Glacier National Park (Montana) has been on my list to visit for a few years.  We almost didn’t go this year because, well…. we just didn’t get anything reserved in a timely manner!  Luckily we were able to book at some great places on both the east and west side.

After doing a bit of research we decided to split our trip and visit each side of the park.  Most of the trails we wanted to do were on the east side so that is where we spent the majority of our time.  We visited the park September 19-24, 2016.  The reason we chose this week is because we wanted to experience some color changes while we were there.  What we didn’t realize (until after we already booked our trip) is that many of the park services stop such as shuttles, guided hikes and the boat ride on the Grinnell Glacier hike.  I typically prefer off season at the National Parks because it’s less crowded but this is one park I would prefer to go when people are on the trails because of the bear risk.  More people usually mean less bear activity.  I also don’t usually partake in the guided hikes because I like to go at my own pace but again, would have been nice on some of the hikes with high bear activity.  I was nervous going in that there wouldn’t be many people on the trail since it was considered off season but happy to see quite a few people out!  I actually thought this was one of the busiest parks we have been to yet!

After a bumpy descent into Glacier Park International Airport we took Going To The Sun Road over to the east side.  This road is nothing short of spectacular.  This 50 mile road connects the two sides of the park and there is beauty around every turn.  I am sure I was annoying Scott because I had to stop what seemed like every mile!  Make sure to carve plenty of time for this road!  It is pure raw beauty!!  This road does close quite a bit due to weather so make sure to check the status before going!

Bear Food

We stayed at The Cottages at Glacier on the East side of Glacier National Park.  I can’t say enough good things about these cabins and the owners.  The cabin was perfectly situated at the end of the Going To The Sun Road and in St Mary.  It was easy access to get a few groceries and great access to the trails on the east side.  The cabin was stocked with everything you could ever need and was very very clean.  The cabin has a STUNNING view of the lake and mountains too.  The owners are the nicest people and so helpful too.  Get ready to spend a few bucks to stay here but you will not be disappointed!  They even provide you with bear spray which is a huge savings!

We dove right in and did our longest hike first, Grinnell Glacier.  If you do any amount of research about Glacier National Park you will quickly learn that Grinnell Glacier is on every list of must do hikes.  Now, you will read many articles about the boat ride that cuts off some of the distance on this hike.  Many people and locals will tell you that the boat ride is a tourist trap and it doesn’t cut off much distance. Now, I’m sure if you are a 20-something or in fantastic shape this distance isn’t much BUT I am here to tell you it would have been EXTREMELY beneficial to me!  Lucky for us (NOT) the boats quit running for the season the day before we were scheduled to do this hike.  Conflicting reports on how much distance the boat ride saves but it is about 3.5 miles roundtrip.  This is significant when you are climbing pretty good gains on a mountain and when you have no cartilage in your knees (and overweight). The last few miles of this hike were brutal for me and after 13 miles round trip that boat ride back would have been glorious.  So, my advice if you think you might not be up to a 13 mile hike in the mountains then opt to do it when the boats are running!  If you visit GNP you MUST do this hike! It’s the second most scenic hike I’ve been on (second to Lake O’Hara Alpine Hike in Yoho National Park, Canada-Blog post HERE).  The Grinnell Glacier hike is nothing short of spectacular.  Most of this hike you are open on ledges to the most splendid views nature has to offer.  Glacier fed lakes and waterfalls guide you along the way to one of the few remaining glaciers in the park.  The last part of this hike is the most strenuous with steep switchbacks until you reach the Glacier.   This trail is also prime grizzly bear habitat.  A ranger did inform us that one had been spotted on the trail but left the people alone.  It’s very important to read up on bear encounters before hiking in GNP.

Big horned sheep along the Grinnell Glacier Hike

I got up before sunrise to photograph the iconic and most photographed Wild Goose Island.  This is located on St. Mary Lake which was a short 10-15 minute drive from our cabin.  Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate and I didn’t get the shot I was wanted but that is life!  You win some and you lose some.  Most professional photographers make many many attempts to get that one lucky break and I only had two days to get ‘the shot.’  It still is a beautiful spot and was a great way to start the day.  I am not an early riser but in the mountains few things compare to watching a sunrise!

Since I was crazy sore from Grinnell Glacier hike we did an easier 5.5 mile hike (round trip) to St. Mary area waterfalls hike.  If you do this hike make sure to go all the way to Virginia Falls…it’s well worth it!  This hike starts through the forest and passes by St. Mary Falls and Virginia Creek.  It isn’t a very scenic hike (especially coming off Grinnell Glacier) but Virginia Falls is really pretty!  I really really wish I would have had Scott stand at the upper deck for perspective because this waterfall is HUGE!  The picture doesn’t do it justice.

Our next hike was to Avalanche Lake.  This was an easy hike with really pretty streams and forest along the way.  This was the busiest hike because it’s easier.  At the top, you are greeted by a gorgeous panoramic view of Avalanche Lake and 3 waterfalls spilling over the mountains.  Again, this picture doesn’t really do it justice… you need to go!

On our way back to the west side we stopped by Lake McDonald.  GNP is known for it’s colorful pebbles everywhere and they really are so pretty!  It was so overcast most of our trip but I still attempted to capture their beauty.

We spent our final time in Whitefish, Montana to relax and be closer to the airport before entering back into the real world.  Whitefish is an ADORABLE little ski town!!  I thoroughly enjoyed our time here.  The weather was perfect to stroll the sidewalks filled with small boutiques and independent shops.  It is so clean, friendly and picturesque.  The restaurants we went to were delicious and our lodge was quaint.  We stayed at the Lodge at Whitefish Lake and it is a really nice place.  If you go, I recommend staying in the Whitefish Lodge condos because they aren’t much more in price and are super nice, have kitchen, an amazing view of the lake and are away from the noise of the lodge.  The lodge is located just a mile from the downtown area and offers free shuttle service.  My favorite place we ate was Tupelo Grill… oh my goodness it was delicious!! It was highly recommended on trip advisor and by the locals and it did NOT disappoint.

The view from our condo

My only regret is not carving more time for GNP.  This is quite a special place and I really hope to get back some day!!  What a BEAUTIFUL place on earth!